Birch Bark Extract Betulin Powder

The main and most commercially valuable natural source of Betulin is the bark of birch (Betula spp.), especially the outer bark of Betula platyphylla and Betula pendula._[1] The Betulin content in birch bark is very abundant, accounting for 10% to 35% of its dry weight, making it a natural resource with great potential for sustainable development.
Betulin has a long history of use, and in traditional folk medicine, birch bark is often used to treat skin inflammation, wounds, and infections. With the development of modern science and technology, researchers have been able to isolate and identify Betulin as one of the key active ingredients for its therapeutic effects.

The industrial-scale production of high-purity betulin is the key to its commercial application. The entire process usually includes steps such as raw material pretreatment, extraction, concentration, purification, and drying.

3.1 Raw Material Pre-treatment

Firstly, the collected birch bark needs to be pre-treated to increase its contact area with the extraction solvent, thereby improving the extraction efficiency. The main steps include: cleaning, drying, crushing, and pulverization.

3.2 Extraction Methods and Solvent Selection

Extraction is the core process of the entire process. At present, various extraction methods have been developed in both industry and academia:

• Traditional solvent extraction method: This is the most classic and commonly used method, including Soxhlet extraction and reflux extraction. Common solvents include ethanol, methanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, hexane, etc.
• Modern green extraction technology: In order to improve efficiency, reduce solvent consumption and environmental pollution, various modern technologies have been applied to the extraction of betuline: ultrasonic-assisted extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, supercritical CO2 extraction, and pressurized liquid extraction.

3.3 Purification Process

To obtain high-purity betulin that meets the standards for cosmetic use (usually requiring>98%), precise purification is necessary.

• Recrystallization, chromatography: For applications that require extremely high purity, column chromatography (such as silica gel column chromatography) can be used for further separation and purification to remove structurally similar impurities.
• Other methods, such as activated carbon decolorization and alkaline washing (to remove acidic impurities such as betulinic acid), are also commonly used to improve the color and purity of products.

The multifunctionality of Betulin is the core reason why it is highly favored in the cosmetics industry. In recent years, research, including some literature published between 2022 and 2025, has provided strong scientific support for its efficacy in skin care.

Product Efficiency and Mechanism of Action

Superior Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing Efficiency

The anti-inflammatory mechanism of betulin is multi-target. Research has shown that it can inhibit the activation of multiple key inflammatory pathways. For example, it can downregulate the production of inflammatory mediators such as prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and nitric oxide (NO).

Further research has found that betulin and its derivatives can regulate inflammatory cytokines such as tumor necrosis factor-α and TNF-α; The expression of interleukin-6 and IL-6._[2]

Powerful antioxidant capacity

 

Betulin can counteract oxidative stress through multiple pathways. Firstly, it can directly eliminate reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as superoxide anions and hydroxyl radicals, thereby protecting cell membranes, proteins, and DNA from oxidative damage.

Secondly, some studies suggest that betulin may exert indirect antioxidant effects by activating endogenous antioxidant defense systems in cells, such as the Nrf2 pathway._[3] 

Promotion of Skin Barrier Repair and Wound Healing

The repairing effect of betulin is closely related to its anti-inflammatory, promoting cell proliferation and differentiation ability.
It not only reduces the inflammatory response at the wound site but also stimulates the migration and proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, promotes collagen synthesis, and accelerates epithelialization and tissue remodeling._[4] 

Betulin helps restore the integrity of the epidermal layer structure by promoting the differentiation of keratinocytes.

Betulin can be widely used in various cosmetic formulas to meet the needs of consumers with different skin types and demands.

Sensitive skin repair products

It can be used to develop repair cream, soothing essence, facial mask, etc., aiming to relieve redness, tingling, dry itching, and other symptoms of sensitive skin, and strengthen the skin barrier.

Antiaging products

It can be added as a core ingredient in anti-wrinkle essence, firming face cream, and eye cream to fight against fine lines, wrinkles, and skin laxity through its antioxidant and collagen protective effects.

Acne and oily skin care products

With its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, it can be used to develop acne gel, oil control lotion, etc., to help improve acne and acne problems.

 

Body and scalp care products

It can be used for body lotion to improve dry and rough skin; it can also be used for scalp care essence to relieve scalp inflammation and improve dandruff and scalp sensitivity.

In terms of product form, betulin can be dispersed in the oil phase of cream and lotion, and can also be made into water-based products through nano carrier technology (such as liposome and nano emulsion) to improve its stability and bioavailability.

Analysis of Regulatory Status:
①European Union (EU): As of September 2025, Betulin has not been included in the list of banned substances (Annex II) or restricted substances (Annex III) under the framework of EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has not yet released an official safety assessment specifically for Betulin._[5] This means that Betulin can be legally used in the EU market, provided that the enterprise completes its own Product Safety Assessment Report (CPSR) and ensures its safety.
②United States (USA): In the United States, the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients is mainly carried out by the industry self-regulatory organization - the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board (CIR). At present, CIR has not yet released the final security assessment report on Betulin._[6] It is also not listed as a GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) substance by the FDA for use in cosmetics. However, this does not mean that it is unsafe or prohibited, but rather lacks an official systematic evaluation.
③China: Betulin has been included in China's "Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Ingredients", which means it can be used as a cosmetic ingredient in China. According to an industry data source, the highest historical usage of Betulin in Chinese resident cosmetics is 2%. The data source also mentioned that according to the 2025 recommendation, its usage in facial (including neck) resident products is recommended to not exceed 2%.

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Reference:
[1]Betulin is a natural triterpene, usually from birch bark, known for its potential wound-healing properties[2023-07-25]
[2]Mateusz Pielok, M. Grymel. "Betulin – application in dermatology and cosmetology." Aesthetic Cosmetology and Medicine[2023-06-01]
[3]I Ogólnopolska Konferencja Naukowa Kosmotrend Naturalne surowce kosmetyczne. Wydział Chemiczny Politechniki Śląskiej. [2024-06-02]
[4]Bioactive ingredients in Korean cosmeceuticals: Trends and research evidence. Julie K. Nguyen, MD et al. [2020-02-05]
[5]Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics. Christina L. Burnett, et al. [2014-02-21]
[6]Safety Assessment of COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE as Used in Cosmetics. 2023 Final Report from CIR. Li Jincong, et al. [2023-11-08]